Founded in 1963 by British tea planter and dendrologist Sam Popham, this is the only dry-zone arboretum in Sri Lanka located in Dambulla. When Popham bought this abandoned piece of land, it was covered with scrub. After clearing the vegetation, he noticed that the indigenous trees, which were unable to grow previously due to the dense scrub cover, were starting to thrive. Following this observation, he developed the “Popham Method”, an experiment in reforesting that involved selectively clearing a scrub jungle so that native trees could seed and grow.

Spread over an area of 14 ha (35 acres), the arboretum has around 200 species of trees and shrubs, including many endemic ones. Among the topical trees here are satinwood, ebony, tamarind and ironwood, which in turn provide habitat for a variety of birds such as the endemic Sri Lankan jungle fowl, the grey hornbill and blue-tailed bee eater, in addition to small mammals.

Designed by Geoffrey Bawa, the visitor centre of the arboretum used to be Popham’s home before he left Sri Lanka in the 1980s and headed back to the UK. An album containing photographs of what the arboretum looked like in its early years, and of the mud hut that was Popham’s first home, is available on request.

There are three color-coded trails that meander through the arboretum grounds. Visitors can explore these trails independently, or arrange for a guided walk; all trails begin from the visitors centre. It is also possible to come for an evening walk when there is a chance of sighting a slender loris, a spotted deer or a pangolin.

The Cultural Triangle has a wealth of attractions, including five UNESCO World Heritage sites. The ruins of Anuradhapura and Polannaruwa, along with the town of Kandy form the triumvirate of unmissable sights that lend the region its name. Beyond these cultural hotspots lie other fascinating ruins and some superb national parks.

Located in Sri Lanka’s northern plains, Anuradhapura and Polannaruwa are bastions of Sinhalese traditions as well as architectural marvels. All that remains of these great cities today are captivating ruins that provide an insight into Sinhalese culture and inform visitors about the history of Buddhism. In fact, Mihintale, not far from Anuradhapura, is said to be where Mahinda introduced Buddhism to Sri Lanka.

The Cultural Triangle has, however, much more to offer visitors who venture beyond these sights. The nymph frescoes at the spectacular Sigiriya Rock, and the murals in the Dambulla Cave Temples are excellent examples of Sri Lankan art, while tourists gape at the sheer size of the standing Buddha sculptures at Aukana and Sasseruwa. There are also the tranquil, abandoned monastery ruins of Ritigala and Arankele for those who want to escape the crowds.

Aside from the cultural sights, this diverse region also boasts a wealth of natural attractions. Visitors can intersperse their sightseeing with trips to Minneriya and Kaudulla national parks, where “the Gathering” the elephants takes place each year during the dry season. The parks also have a wide variety of birdlife.

The Cultural Triangle is well established on the tourist trail and visitors are catered for with comfortable and atmospheric hotels, a host of transport options and tour operators offering a variety of interesting outdoor activities such as hot-air ballooning and cycling.

Exploring the Cultural Triangle

The Cultural Triangle sees more visitors than most areas of Sri Lanka as it is home to numerous sights of historical interest, ranging from staggering ruins of great Sinhalese capitols and Buddhist monasteries to remarkable cave temples carved out of granite outcrops. Centrally located Habarana and Sigiriya are excellent tourist destinations in their own right, along with being good bases for day trips to Polannaruwa and Anuradhapura. Smaller and less-visited attractions towards the south of the region, such as the temple at Aluvihare or the Nalanda Gedige, can also be comfortably accessed but trips will need to be planned in advance. The region’s national parks are ideally positioned to break up an itinerary of historical sights.

Getting Around

Visitors to the Cultural Triangle often hire a car and driver, which makes getting around easier and less time consuming. Trains run from Colombo to both Anuradhrapura and Polannaruwa and bus services in the region are regular and reliable. Habarana is a key point for changing buses. Bear in mind, however, that some of the north-bound buses can be extremely crowded and travelling in them can be difficult. Dambulla, Habarana and Sigiriya are ideal bases for day trips to surroundings areas. To visit and sights located further afield, tourists without a car often choose to arrange tours through guesthouses or hotels, or hire a three-wheeler. The ruins at Anuradhapura and Polannaruwa are best explored on bicycle and these can be hired from nearby guesthouses. A jeep and driver are needed for park safaris, which can be arranged through hotels or at the entrance to the parks.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, the ancient citadel of Sigiriya sits atop a giant granite rock rising 200 m above the surrounding countryside. There are conflicting theories about the history of Sigiriya, but according to the MahavamsaKing Kassapa killed his father, King Dhatusena, in AD 477 to inherit the throne. Fearing retribution from his half-brother, Mogallana, Kassapa built an impregnable palace-fortress on the summit of the rock between AD 477 and 485. The site is thought to have been occupied for millennia, but much of what can be seen here today is attributed to the time of King Kassapa. The ruins were first discovered by British archaeologists in the early 20^th century, and excavations have continued here ever since.

The Royal Gardens

These landscaped gardens are divided into water, boulder and terrace gardens. The water gardens on the way to the rock from an avenue, with brick-lined pools and islands with ruined pavilions on either side. Beyond these lie the boulder and terrace gardens at the base of the rock.

The Lion Platform

This terrace on the northern side of the rock marks the final steep ascent to the summit. At one time, a colossal brick lion guarded the stairway leading to the top of the rock. The lion’s massive paws are all that remain of the structure, but even these are impressive.

The Summit

Nearly 2 ha in extent, the summit was once covered with buildings .today, only the foundations can be seen. The main attraction here are the spectacular views over the water gardens and beyond.

The Mirror Wall

This wall was originally coated with a natural concoction of lime, egg white and honey, which lend it a brilliant shine; some sections look highly polished even today. This wall is covered with graffiti- often in verses – by visitors between the 7^th and 13^th centuries on their impressions of Sigiriya and the frescoes here. Translations of these can be seen in the Sigiriya Museum.

Sigiriya Frescoes

One of the highlights of a visit to Sigiriya Rock are the beautiful frescoes that can be seen in a shelteredgallery in the western rock face. Of the estimated original of 500 frescoes, only 200 remain today. Dating from around the 5^th century, the paintings were initially thought to depict Kassapa’s concubines but are now believed to be portraits of apsaras (celestial nymphs) with their attendants. However, a theory suggested by Dr Raja de Silva claims that these are actually depictions of the Mahayana goddess, Tara. Among the island’s most iconic images, the frescoes have been likened in style to those in the Ajanta Caves in southwestern India. Despite their antiquity, the paintings remain remarkably well preserved, in part because of the protection afforded by the stone ledge.

Matale is a busy town that does not have many attractions of its town, but serves as an entry point to Sri Lanka’s ancient cities. Tourists en route from Kandy to Dambulla often make a stop over in Matale to visit the Sri Muthumariamman Thevasthanam– an attractive kovil located on the town’s main road, and dedicated to the goddess Mariamman. The statuary on the gopuras is painted in muted colors, in stark contrast to the vivid coloring of other temples found on the island.

About 2 km north of Matale is the Aluvihare Heritage Centreset up by renowned Sri Lankan artist Ena de Silve. Visitors can walk around and explore the sprawling gardens and watch artisans producing intricate batik and fine embroidery in the centre’s workshops. If arranged in advance, it is possible to have lunch at the centre’s Aluvihare Kitchens, where a buffet offering various rice dishes and as many as 24 different curries is served to groups of four or more.