Sri Lanka’s South Coast is primarily a rural religion, made up of somnolent fishing villages and towns, where stilt fisherman can commonly be seen perched above the surf. The province was badly hit by the 2004 tsunami, although little evidence of the destruction remains. Rich in both history and culture, the south boasts attractions ranging from Colonial-era forts to atmospheric religious centers. Visitors can explore the wealth of national parks in the area or even undertake a whale- or turtle- watching expedition.

The south Coast was part of the ancient kingdom of Ruhunu, with Tissamaharama as its capital and principle settlement. The region flourished mainly from trade conducted through the ports in Galle and Matara. The Portuguese arrived in Sri Lanka in the 16^th century and constructed a fort in Galle, but they had to capitulate the area to the Dutch East India Company in 1640. When the British took over the country in 1802, Colombo became the main port and the south slipped into relative obscurity. Parts of the region still remain untouched by Sri Lanka’s tourist industry.

However, the province is gradually changing. The southern Expressway from Colombo to Galle has cut the journey to one hour from three. The highway continues on to Matara, and combined with the airport near Hambantota, it is expected to bring many more visitors to the South coast.

The sheltered bay of Unawatuna, offering safe swimming and snorkeling, is a major draw for tourists, whereas surfers keen to escape the crowds can be found at the smaller beachfront settlements of Midigama and Weligama. Tissamaharama acts as a base for trips to the superb national parks nearby, as well as to the venerated town of Kataragama. However, much of the region’s charm lies in simply travelling along the coast to experience local life in the villages. Fishermen and farmers continue to live and work as they have done for generations, even as large hotels spring up nearby.

Exploring the South

The South Coast encapsulates all of Sri Lanka’s characteristic features. It is home to some of the most beautiful beaches on the island, with snorkeling and diving on offer at Unawatuna and Tangalla. Whale-watching tours are frequently organized out of Mirissa, and Rekawa beach offers some excellent turtle-watching. Wildlife-lovers can spend a rewarding day observing elephants at Uda Walawe National Park or tracking leopards at Yala National Park.

Other important sights include the Colonial town of Galle, which boasts an atmospheric 18^th– century fort, and Mulgirigala, a Buddhist site where the key to translating the Mahavamsa was discovered. However, Kataragama enjoys pride of place among the South Coast’s diverse attractions. One of the most sacred places on the island, it is where pilgrims descent in droves during the annual Kataragama Festival.

Getting Around

The best way to get around the South Coast is by car or bus, since distances between towns are often large and trains only run as far east as Matara. Bus services are plentiful along the coast, but having a car and driver makes it easy to stop at sights en route. Most visitors base themselves in Galle or Unawatuna to explore the surrounding area, and then travel on to Mirissa or Tangalla. Tissamaharama makes a good base to visit Bundala and Yala National Parks. Three-wheelers are easily hired for journeys to outlying sights or between coastal settlements.

The most important town on the South Coast, Galle comprises the Old Dutch quarter- enclosed within the Fort – and sprawling New Town located outside the Fort’s walls. The fort forms the center-piece of the town as most tourists come to Galle to explore the extensive Colonial-era fortifications- a UNESCO World Heritage Site- and other Dutch-period relics.

New town has a few attractions for visitors. Unlike the Dutch quarter, which was largely protected by the sturdy walls of the Fort, the new town was badly damaged by the 2004 tsunami. It has now been rebuilt, and an amble along its streets is a perfect way to enjoy the town’s atmosphere. The bus and train stations are located here, and there are also a number of shops and other amenities befitting a big town. The main street, with its colorful pavement shops, is the perfect place for an evening stroll. Cricket enthusiasts might want to visit the Galle International Cricket Stadium, next to the Fort’s Main Gate.

Dutch Reformed Church

The Dutch Reformed Church was built in the 18^th century by Commander Casparus de Jong to commemorate the birth of his daughter. Cruciform in shape with high, vaulted ceiling, the church is an imposing sight. Its pulpit is topped by a large, impressive canopy, and a balustraded staircase leads to organ loft. However, the most striking feature of the church is the ornate tombstones laid into the floor and adorning the walls, which were moved here from Dutch cemeteries. The memorials underline just now hard life on the island was for the early colonialists. More tombstones can be seen in the church’s grounds.

National Maritime Archaeology Museum

Housed in an Old Dutch warehouse, this large museum showcases miscellaneous marine artifacts. The visit begins with film screening that details the history of various shipwrecks, such as the HMS Hermes, off the East Coast of Sri Lanka. Items recovered from some of these sites are on display in the halls, and include maps, earthenware, beer mugs, smoking pipes and artillery guns. The beardman mug, excavated from the wreckage of the Dutch ship Avondster, is one such relic. In addition, the museum also covers other subjects related to the sea, such as the influence of shipping and foreign trade on Sri Lankan language, culture and history.

The museum’s collection suffered extensive damage during the 2004 tsunami, and a number of artifacts were lost. In their place are some new exhibits that were found in the aftermath of the disaster, such as a wooden Buddha statue, believed to have been towed by the waves from an unknown location.

Historical Mansion Museum

This restored Dutch mansion houses a private collection of antiques and bric-a-brac, belonging to Abdul Gaffar, a resident of Galle. Laid out in rooms around a small courtyard, the museum displays a number of interesting objects, such as a cabinet dedicated to vintage telephones and cameras, all of which have been accumulated by the owner over the last few decades. Lace-makers, gem-cutters and jewellery-makers can be seen at work in the building’s courtyard and their wares are for sale, as are many of the displays in the museum.

The village of Unawatuna is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular resorts. There is a fine stretch of beach, although it has somewhat narrowed in places due to erosion and encroachment by local businesses. Numerous guesthouses dot the village, and restaurants, shops and tour operators abound. There are also street vendors trying to sell souvenirs or touts offering services such as texis and guided tours.

Despite becoming increasingly commercialized, Unawatuna still attracts visitors with its laidback charm and year-round swimming. A semi-circular belt of sand, the beach is set in an attractive bay protected at both ends by a headland. The water here is calm for most of the year and there are a number of watersports on offer, including snorkeling and wreck-diving. Other interesting activities include cookery lessons and yoga classes. Unawatuna also offers a vibrant nightlife, although it can sometimes get very noisy; music blaring from bars at all hours of the night during high season is commonplace.

At the western end of the beach is a dagoba, from where there are some good views over the surroundings area. Another attraction is Rummassala, a rocky outcrop behind the village. Legend states that it is a fragment of the Himalayas dropped by the Hindu monkey god Hanuman as the made his way back to Lord Rama, carrying the herb needed to save his wounded brother, Lakshmana. Another bit of the mountain is said to have fallen on Ritigala. Higher up the Rumassala hillside is the modern, white Japanese peace pagodafrom where visitorscan enjoy the great views of the Galle Fort. The hill also known for the number of the rare plants and medicinal herbs that grown on it.

On the other side of the hill is Jungle beach. Often largely, deserted, this is the good spot for snorkeling and can be a welcome relief from the busy main beach. Visitors can either hire a three-wheeler or walk the flatter, longer route around the hill to get to the beach.