A beachside suburb of Colombo, Mount Lavinia is said to have been named after Sri Thomas Maitland’s lover, a Portuguese- Sinhalese local dancer named Lovina. Maitland, who saved as Governor General of Ceylon from 1805- 11, established a residence in this area in 1806. Legend maintains that a tunnel connected the building to Lovina’s house so the lovers could meet in secret. The building was lived in and expanded by successive governors until it was converted into the Mount Lavinia Hotel in the late 19^th century.

The imposing Colonial hotel, poised on a small promontory, towers over the beach and attracts many visitors, especially foreigners, to Mount Lavinia. The hotel has maintained its old-world charm despite modernization. There are excellent views across the sea from here, which can be enjoyed over an evening drink.

Mount Lavinia is a good, laid-back alternative to the bustle of Colombo. The beach is decent but can get particularly busy at weekends and holidays, when locals decent for the day. The sea is not great for swimming, but it is possible to watch the fishermen preparing to cast their nets. There are also a number of beachside bars and restaurants. Visitors are advised to exercise caution when walking back to their hotel after dark.

Many visitors choose Negombo rather than Colombo as their gateway to Sri Lanka due to its proximity to the Bandaranaike International Airport. It was one of the first territories occupied by the Portuguese and their missionaries converted many citizens to Catholicism in the 16^th century. Portuguese surnames are common and Easter is celebrated every year with the staging of the Passion Play in Duwa, a small island in the Negombo Lagoon.

The town has a smattering of roadside Catholic shrines and churches. Among them, St Mary’s Church, with its brightly painted ceiling and several alabaster statues of saints, occupies pride of place. There are also a few remnants of the Colonial period such as the Fort, built by the Dutch in 1672, which now serves as a prison. Additionally, there are some interesting temples, both Hindu and Buddhist to explore.

Negombo became a significant commercial centre during the Dutch occupation and its 15^th-century waterways were expended to help transport spices – particularly cinnamon, which grew abundantly in the area – from inland towns to the coast. These waterways or canals formed a sizeable network. Extending south to Colombo and north to Puttalam, they covered a distance of 120 km (75 miles) and once teemed with flat-bottomed “padda” boats. Today it is possible to cycle or walk along the banks or take a boat trip to observe bucolic life while watching out for birds that frequent the area. Negombo offers a lively insight into life in coastal Sri Lanka. The economy relies heavily on fishing and a visit to one of the fish markets can be fascinating experience; but consider wearing closed shoes to avoid the inevitable slush.

Located a couple of miles north of the town, Negombo’s beach is where most tourists decide to base themselves as a wide range of accommodation options, as well as a number of restaurants and shops, line the sandy shore. While less hectic than the beach in Colombo, there are still many activities to choose from here such as diving, kitesurfing and fishing. Swimming is not recommended since the sea can be rough but many hotels have pools that are open to non residents for a fee. Local boatmen also hang out on the beach, offering to take tourists out to sea or to the Negombo Lagoon in their “oruvas” (stylized canoes).

Visitors should note that Negombo Beach is not always very clean. Fishing boats and nets litter the sand at its southern end, and fish drying in the sun is a familiar sight. The northern part of the beach, however, is far more pleasant.

The most important town on the South Coast, Galle comprises the Old Dutch quarter- enclosed within the Fort – and sprawling New Town located outside the Fort’s walls. The fort forms the center-piece of the town as most tourists come to Galle to explore the extensive Colonial-era fortifications- a UNESCO World Heritage Site- and other Dutch-period relics.

New town has a few attractions for visitors. Unlike the Dutch quarter, which was largely protected by the sturdy walls of the Fort, the new town was badly damaged by the 2004 tsunami. It has now been rebuilt, and an amble along its streets is a perfect way to enjoy the town’s atmosphere. The bus and train stations are located here, and there are also a number of shops and other amenities befitting a big town. The main street, with its colorful pavement shops, is the perfect place for an evening stroll. Cricket enthusiasts might want to visit the Galle International Cricket Stadium, next to the Fort’s Main Gate.

Dutch Reformed Church

The Dutch Reformed Church was built in the 18^th century by Commander Casparus de Jong to commemorate the birth of his daughter. Cruciform in shape with high, vaulted ceiling, the church is an imposing sight. Its pulpit is topped by a large, impressive canopy, and a balustraded staircase leads to organ loft. However, the most striking feature of the church is the ornate tombstones laid into the floor and adorning the walls, which were moved here from Dutch cemeteries. The memorials underline just now hard life on the island was for the early colonialists. More tombstones can be seen in the church’s grounds.

National Maritime Archaeology Museum

Housed in an Old Dutch warehouse, this large museum showcases miscellaneous marine artifacts. The visit begins with film screening that details the history of various shipwrecks, such as the HMS Hermes, off the East Coast of Sri Lanka. Items recovered from some of these sites are on display in the halls, and include maps, earthenware, beer mugs, smoking pipes and artillery guns. The beardman mug, excavated from the wreckage of the Dutch ship Avondster, is one such relic. In addition, the museum also covers other subjects related to the sea, such as the influence of shipping and foreign trade on Sri Lankan language, culture and history.

The museum’s collection suffered extensive damage during the 2004 tsunami, and a number of artifacts were lost. In their place are some new exhibits that were found in the aftermath of the disaster, such as a wooden Buddha statue, believed to have been towed by the waves from an unknown location.

Historical Mansion Museum

This restored Dutch mansion houses a private collection of antiques and bric-a-brac, belonging to Abdul Gaffar, a resident of Galle. Laid out in rooms around a small courtyard, the museum displays a number of interesting objects, such as a cabinet dedicated to vintage telephones and cameras, all of which have been accumulated by the owner over the last few decades. Lace-makers, gem-cutters and jewellery-makers can be seen at work in the building’s courtyard and their wares are for sale, as are many of the displays in the museum.

After being isolated for long periods during the Civil War and battered by the 200 tsunami, the East Coast is welcoming visitors once again. Although the scars of both still remain, the area is now in the midst of a revival. The tourism potential of its beautiful coastline has been recognized, and major plans are underway to improve the infrastructure. Along with exploring unspoiled beaches and jungle-covered ruins, visitors can enjoy whale-watching, wreck-diving and surfing.

Located in the dry zone, the East Coast is one of Sri Lanka’s most ethnically diverse areas, with a mix of Sinhalese, Muslim and Tamil communities. Most of the area’s population resides in towns and small fishing villages along the coastline, while places inland remain less developed and sparsely populated. The principal town on the East Coast is Trincomalee, which shaped much of the area’s early history. Famous for its deep-water natural harbor, the town was the island’s trading hub during the Anuradhapura and Polannaruwa eras until the Colonial times.

The East began to decline when trade was diverted to the new ports at Galle and then at Colombo. The area’s fortunes further diminished when it found itself enmeshed in the violent struggles between the LTTE and the Sri Lankan Army during the civil War. The war ended in 2009, and since then much of the East Coast has opened up to tourists. The area is now peaceful, although there is a still a military presence in many of its towns and villages.

Most visitors come here for the idyllic stretches of sand, such as the beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli as well as those of Passekudah and Kalkudah. However, surfing enthusiasts head for Arugam Bay, which offers the best surf in the country. Inland, the countryside is largely wild and home to several national parks, of which Kumana is a particular draw for birdwatchers. The area around Maduru Oya National Park is where the original inhabitants of the island, the Veddahs, still try to maintain their traditional way of life.

Exploring The East

The East Coast is home to beautiful beaches and is also considered to be one of the best places in Sri Lanka for surfing. Trincomalee, the capital of the province, is famed for its impressive natural harbor, but the majority of visitors base themselves at the peaceful beaches afford superb opportunities for snorkeling, sport fishing and whale-watching. Further down the coast, Batticaloa offers one of the island’s best wreck-dives to the HMS Hermes that lies off its shores. A short distance north stretch the formerly war-torn beaches of Passekudah and Kalkudah, which are now experiencing a resurgence in popularity among tourists. The surfing hotspot of Arumugam Bay, at the southern end of the coastline, offers the best waves and also serves as a good base for trips to the Lahugala and Kumana national parks as well as the Kudumbigala Hermitage.

Getting Around

Although public transport is easily available in the East, visitors looking for a quicker means of transportation are advised to hire a car and a driver to get around. Road conditions are slowly improving across the area and there are plans to build new routes to cut journey times. Buses travel regularly to, as well as along, the coast, train services run to both Trincomalee and Batticaloa, but visitors will have to change at Gal Oya, if travelling between two towns. Note that travelling south of Panama can still be difficult, as the road here is in poor condition. The towns of Trincomalee, Batticaloa and Arugam Bay are all compact enough to walk around. However, visitors will need to rent a three-wheeler to explore further afield.

With its skyscrapers, chock-a-block traffic and frenetic pace of life, Sri Lanka’s dynamic capital is markedly different from other Sri Lankan cities. For most visitors, Colombo is only a stopover on their way to the southern beaches, the Hill Country or the Cultural Triangle. However, this modern, overcrowded metropolis teems with energy and is one of the best places on the island to splurge in fashionable boutiques, sample a wide range of cuisines and enjoy a vibrant nightlife.

Colombo has long been a commercial centre owing to its natural harbor; Arab traders had established a trading outpost here as early as the 7^th century. However, the city was still a relative backwater until the arrival of the Portuguese, who built a fort here in the 16^th century. The Portuguese lost control of the area in 1656 to the Dutch, who then administered Colombo for almost 150 years before the British captured in 1976. It was during the British era that the city’s fortunes really changed.

Colombo was declared the capital of Sri Lanka in 1815; and by the 1860s, it was considered the country’s major port with road and rail links to the rest of the island. The city continued to prosper throughout the 19^th century and has maintained its dominant status in post-independence Sri Lanka. However, Colombo has also had its share of tribulations. During the Civil War (1983 – 2009), the city was ravaged by the LTTE. The nation’s capital took some time to recover from the war but it is now relaxing its security measures and welcoming large numbers of visitors once again.

The centerpiece of the city is undoubtedly Fort, where gleaming office blocks rub shoulders with Colonial-era buildings, while to its east lies the Pettah, a bustling bazaar district. The neighborhood that attracts most visitors however is the well-heeled Cinnamon Gardens, home to superb museums and chic cafes. A plethora of upmarket hotels and swanky restaurants, round off Colombo’s charm.

Exploring Colombo

The vast urban sprawl of Colombo is divided into several neighborhoods, each identified by a number similar to a postal code. To the northwest of the city, close to the harbor, lies the historic Fort (Colombo 1), punctuated by characterful Neo-Classical buildings dating from the British occupation. Fort is also the financial district with the best choice of high-end hotels. Located southeast of the Fort, in the heart of the Colombo, Slave Island (Colombo 2) is renowned for the glorious Gangaramaya Temple. The island is bounded on three sides by the Beira Lake, where the SeemaMalaka shrine can be found. The southern suburb of Kollupitiya (Colombo 3) is Colombo’s main shopping hub, while modish boutiques and cafes nestle in the shady avenues of Cinnamon Gardens (Colombo 7), which is also home to the superb Colombo National Museum. In addition, the city’s neighborhoods are dotted with kovils, mosques, churches and Buddhist landmarks.

Sights at a Glance

Historic Buildings

• Grand Oriental Hotel
• Old Town Hall

Museums & Galleries

• Maritime Museum
• Dutch Period Museum
• National Railway Museum
• Colombo National Museum
• Natural History Museum and Art Gallery

Religious Buildings

• St Peter’s Church
• Sambodhi Chetiya
• Mosques in Pettah and Kotahena
• Wolvendaal Church
• St Anthony’s Church
• Beira Lake and SeemaMalaka
• Gangarama Temple
• Kelaniya Raja MahaVihara

Parks, Zoos and Areas of Natural Beauty

• Galle Face Green
• ViharaMahadevi Park
• Talangama Wetlands
• Dehiwala Zoo

Shops and Markets

• Old Dutch Hospital
• The Pettah

Streets and Neighborhoods

• Slave Island
• Cinnamon Gardens
• Galle Road
• Mount Lavinia

A large, grassy strip of lawn with a promenade facing the Indian Ocean and the busy Galle Face Centre Road running behind it, Galle Face Green is a Colombo landmark. The Green was laid out in 1859 by Sir Henry Ward, who was the governor of British Ceylon from 1855 to 1860. There is a plaque commemorating him along the promenade. The lawn was formerly used by British colonials for horse racing. Nowadays, it is a communal space where locals gather when the heat of the sun has faded. Kite flying is a popular activity here during weekends and holidays.

The promenade makes for a pleasant stroll and many hawkers sell foods, kites and children’s toys along the seafront. However, scammers and con artists prey on tourists here, so it is advisable to always be on guard.