Many visitors choose Negombo rather than Colombo as their gateway to Sri Lanka due to its proximity to the Bandaranaike International Airport. It was one of the first territories occupied by the Portuguese and their missionaries converted many citizens to Catholicism in the 16^th century. Portuguese surnames are common and Easter is celebrated every year with the staging of the Passion Play in Duwa, a small island in the Negombo Lagoon.

The town has a smattering of roadside Catholic shrines and churches. Among them, St Mary’s Church, with its brightly painted ceiling and several alabaster statues of saints, occupies pride of place. There are also a few remnants of the Colonial period such as the Fort, built by the Dutch in 1672, which now serves as a prison. Additionally, there are some interesting temples, both Hindu and Buddhist to explore.

Negombo became a significant commercial centre during the Dutch occupation and its 15^th-century waterways were expended to help transport spices – particularly cinnamon, which grew abundantly in the area – from inland towns to the coast. These waterways or canals formed a sizeable network. Extending south to Colombo and north to Puttalam, they covered a distance of 120 km (75 miles) and once teemed with flat-bottomed “padda” boats. Today it is possible to cycle or walk along the banks or take a boat trip to observe bucolic life while watching out for birds that frequent the area. Negombo offers a lively insight into life in coastal Sri Lanka. The economy relies heavily on fishing and a visit to one of the fish markets can be fascinating experience; but consider wearing closed shoes to avoid the inevitable slush.

Located a couple of miles north of the town, Negombo’s beach is where most tourists decide to base themselves as a wide range of accommodation options, as well as a number of restaurants and shops, line the sandy shore. While less hectic than the beach in Colombo, there are still many activities to choose from here such as diving, kitesurfing and fishing. Swimming is not recommended since the sea can be rough but many hotels have pools that are open to non residents for a fee. Local boatmen also hang out on the beach, offering to take tourists out to sea or to the Negombo Lagoon in their “oruvas” (stylized canoes).

Visitors should note that Negombo Beach is not always very clean. Fishing boats and nets litter the sand at its southern end, and fish drying in the sun is a familiar sight. The northern part of the beach, however, is far more pleasant.

The village of Unawatuna is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular resorts. There is a fine stretch of beach, although it has somewhat narrowed in places due to erosion and encroachment by local businesses. Numerous guesthouses dot the village, and restaurants, shops and tour operators abound. There are also street vendors trying to sell souvenirs or touts offering services such as texis and guided tours.

Despite becoming increasingly commercialized, Unawatuna still attracts visitors with its laidback charm and year-round swimming. A semi-circular belt of sand, the beach is set in an attractive bay protected at both ends by a headland. The water here is calm for most of the year and there are a number of watersports on offer, including snorkeling and wreck-diving. Other interesting activities include cookery lessons and yoga classes. Unawatuna also offers a vibrant nightlife, although it can sometimes get very noisy; music blaring from bars at all hours of the night during high season is commonplace.

At the western end of the beach is a dagoba, from where there are some good views over the surroundings area. Another attraction is Rummassala, a rocky outcrop behind the village. Legend states that it is a fragment of the Himalayas dropped by the Hindu monkey god Hanuman as the made his way back to Lord Rama, carrying the herb needed to save his wounded brother, Lakshmana. Another bit of the mountain is said to have fallen on Ritigala. Higher up the Rumassala hillside is the modern, white Japanese peace pagodafrom where visitorscan enjoy the great views of the Galle Fort. The hill also known for the number of the rare plants and medicinal herbs that grown on it.

On the other side of the hill is Jungle beach. Often largely, deserted, this is the good spot for snorkeling and can be a welcome relief from the busy main beach. Visitors can either hire a three-wheeler or walk the flatter, longer route around the hill to get to the beach.