Stretching out into the waters of the Palk Strait, the Jaffna Islands lie to the west of the Jaffna Peninsula. A trip to this string of small islands can feel like journeying to the end of the earth- they are sparsely populated, with white sand, blue sea and palmyra trees. Kayts, Karaitivu and Pungudutivu are connected to the mainland by causeways, whereas Nainativu and Delft can only be accessed by boat. For a relaxing day on the beach, Karaitivu or Kayts are the best opinions, while the more isolated Delft is the place for those seeking to get away from it all. Besides providing a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of the cities, these islands also offer some superb bird-watching.

• Delft

The most remote of Jaffna’s inhabited islands, Delft is known for its wild ponies, descendants of horses first introduces by the Portuguese. West of the ferry dock stand the ruins of a coral Dutch fort, while to the dock’s south is an immense baobab tree. The island also has some peaceful swaths of sand.

• Nainativu

This island is great religious importance to Hindus as well as Buddhists. The Naga Pooshani Ambal Kovil is a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Ambal. The Buddhist Nagadipa Vihara features a silver dagobathat marks the spot of the Buddha’s second visit to Sri Lanka. Across the road by bo tree is a seven-headed cobra fountain, where pilgrims often pose for photographs.

• Kayts

The largest of these islands, Kayts is the nearest to Jaffna. South of the island is the Chatty (Velanai) Beach, a popular stretch of sand. To the northwest is Kayts town, from where are ferries to Karaitivu. The town also affords excellent views of the off-shore Hammenhiel Fort, which dates from the 17^th century.

• Karaitivu

The highlight here is Casuarina Beach, which lies on the north end of the island. Popular with locals and foreign tourists, this beach is safe for swimming. Basic facilities such as changing rooms and toilets are available on the beach.

The village of Unawatuna is one of Sri Lanka’s most popular resorts. There is a fine stretch of beach, although it has somewhat narrowed in places due to erosion and encroachment by local businesses. Numerous guesthouses dot the village, and restaurants, shops and tour operators abound. There are also street vendors trying to sell souvenirs or touts offering services such as texis and guided tours.

Despite becoming increasingly commercialized, Unawatuna still attracts visitors with its laidback charm and year-round swimming. A semi-circular belt of sand, the beach is set in an attractive bay protected at both ends by a headland. The water here is calm for most of the year and there are a number of watersports on offer, including snorkeling and wreck-diving. Other interesting activities include cookery lessons and yoga classes. Unawatuna also offers a vibrant nightlife, although it can sometimes get very noisy; music blaring from bars at all hours of the night during high season is commonplace.

At the western end of the beach is a dagoba, from where there are some good views over the surroundings area. Another attraction is Rummassala, a rocky outcrop behind the village. Legend states that it is a fragment of the Himalayas dropped by the Hindu monkey god Hanuman as the made his way back to Lord Rama, carrying the herb needed to save his wounded brother, Lakshmana. Another bit of the mountain is said to have fallen on Ritigala. Higher up the Rumassala hillside is the modern, white Japanese peace pagodafrom where visitorscan enjoy the great views of the Galle Fort. The hill also known for the number of the rare plants and medicinal herbs that grown on it.

On the other side of the hill is Jungle beach. Often largely, deserted, this is the good spot for snorkeling and can be a welcome relief from the busy main beach. Visitors can either hire a three-wheeler or walk the flatter, longer route around the hill to get to the beach.

After being isolated for long periods during the Civil War and battered by the 200 tsunami, the East Coast is welcoming visitors once again. Although the scars of both still remain, the area is now in the midst of a revival. The tourism potential of its beautiful coastline has been recognized, and major plans are underway to improve the infrastructure. Along with exploring unspoiled beaches and jungle-covered ruins, visitors can enjoy whale-watching, wreck-diving and surfing.

Located in the dry zone, the East Coast is one of Sri Lanka’s most ethnically diverse areas, with a mix of Sinhalese, Muslim and Tamil communities. Most of the area’s population resides in towns and small fishing villages along the coastline, while places inland remain less developed and sparsely populated. The principal town on the East Coast is Trincomalee, which shaped much of the area’s early history. Famous for its deep-water natural harbor, the town was the island’s trading hub during the Anuradhapura and Polannaruwa eras until the Colonial times.

The East began to decline when trade was diverted to the new ports at Galle and then at Colombo. The area’s fortunes further diminished when it found itself enmeshed in the violent struggles between the LTTE and the Sri Lankan Army during the civil War. The war ended in 2009, and since then much of the East Coast has opened up to tourists. The area is now peaceful, although there is a still a military presence in many of its towns and villages.

Most visitors come here for the idyllic stretches of sand, such as the beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli as well as those of Passekudah and Kalkudah. However, surfing enthusiasts head for Arugam Bay, which offers the best surf in the country. Inland, the countryside is largely wild and home to several national parks, of which Kumana is a particular draw for birdwatchers. The area around Maduru Oya National Park is where the original inhabitants of the island, the Veddahs, still try to maintain their traditional way of life.

Exploring The East

The East Coast is home to beautiful beaches and is also considered to be one of the best places in Sri Lanka for surfing. Trincomalee, the capital of the province, is famed for its impressive natural harbor, but the majority of visitors base themselves at the peaceful beaches afford superb opportunities for snorkeling, sport fishing and whale-watching. Further down the coast, Batticaloa offers one of the island’s best wreck-dives to the HMS Hermes that lies off its shores. A short distance north stretch the formerly war-torn beaches of Passekudah and Kalkudah, which are now experiencing a resurgence in popularity among tourists. The surfing hotspot of Arumugam Bay, at the southern end of the coastline, offers the best waves and also serves as a good base for trips to the Lahugala and Kumana national parks as well as the Kudumbigala Hermitage.

Getting Around

Although public transport is easily available in the East, visitors looking for a quicker means of transportation are advised to hire a car and a driver to get around. Road conditions are slowly improving across the area and there are plans to build new routes to cut journey times. Buses travel regularly to, as well as along, the coast, train services run to both Trincomalee and Batticaloa, but visitors will have to change at Gal Oya, if travelling between two towns. Note that travelling south of Panama can still be difficult, as the road here is in poor condition. The towns of Trincomalee, Batticaloa and Arugam Bay are all compact enough to walk around. However, visitors will need to rent a three-wheeler to explore further afield.

A large, grassy strip of lawn with a promenade facing the Indian Ocean and the busy Galle Face Centre Road running behind it, Galle Face Green is a Colombo landmark. The Green was laid out in 1859 by Sir Henry Ward, who was the governor of British Ceylon from 1855 to 1860. There is a plaque commemorating him along the promenade. The lawn was formerly used by British colonials for horse racing. Nowadays, it is a communal space where locals gather when the heat of the sun has faded. Kite flying is a popular activity here during weekends and holidays.

The promenade makes for a pleasant stroll and many hawkers sell foods, kites and children’s toys along the seafront. However, scammers and con artists prey on tourists here, so it is advisable to always be on guard.