Stretching out into the waters of the Palk Strait, the Jaffna Islands lie to the west of the Jaffna Peninsula. A trip to this string of small islands can feel like journeying to the end of the earth- they are sparsely populated, with white sand, blue sea and palmyra trees. Kayts, Karaitivu and Pungudutivu are connected to the mainland by causeways, whereas Nainativu and Delft can only be accessed by boat. For a relaxing day on the beach, Karaitivu or Kayts are the best opinions, while the more isolated Delft is the place for those seeking to get away from it all. Besides providing a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of the cities, these islands also offer some superb bird-watching.

• Delft

The most remote of Jaffna’s inhabited islands, Delft is known for its wild ponies, descendants of horses first introduces by the Portuguese. West of the ferry dock stand the ruins of a coral Dutch fort, while to the dock’s south is an immense baobab tree. The island also has some peaceful swaths of sand.

• Nainativu

This island is great religious importance to Hindus as well as Buddhists. The Naga Pooshani Ambal Kovil is a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Ambal. The Buddhist Nagadipa Vihara features a silver dagobathat marks the spot of the Buddha’s second visit to Sri Lanka. Across the road by bo tree is a seven-headed cobra fountain, where pilgrims often pose for photographs.

• Kayts

The largest of these islands, Kayts is the nearest to Jaffna. South of the island is the Chatty (Velanai) Beach, a popular stretch of sand. To the northwest is Kayts town, from where are ferries to Karaitivu. The town also affords excellent views of the off-shore Hammenhiel Fort, which dates from the 17^th century.

• Karaitivu

The highlight here is Casuarina Beach, which lies on the north end of the island. Popular with locals and foreign tourists, this beach is safe for swimming. Basic facilities such as changing rooms and toilets are available on the beach.

Hinduism was brought to Sri Lanka by the Tamil kings are their followers in the 3^rd century. The religion’s influence was particularly strong in Sri Lanka during the 5^th century when it underwent a period of resurgence in south India. Today kovilscan be found all over Colombo. Many are situated in the Pettah and Kotahena, which retain a strong Tamil presence. Located on Sea Street, the New Kathiresan and Old Kathiresankovilsare hard to miss, with intricately carved statuary of Hindu deities adoring their gopuram. The two temples are dedicated to Murugan or Skanda, the Hindu god of war and son of Lord Shiva. During the annual AadiVel Festival, these temples serves as the starting point for the colorful chariot procession.

Another kovil worth visiting is Sri PonnambalamVanesar in Kotahena. This temple was built I the mid-19^th century from granite believed to have been imported from south India. It is simpler in appearance than the majority of Hindu Temples; the grey-stoned gopuram here stands in contrast to the richly painted ones seen elsewhere in Sri Lanka.

After being isolated for long periods during the Civil War and battered by the 200 tsunami, the East Coast is welcoming visitors once again. Although the scars of both still remain, the area is now in the midst of a revival. The tourism potential of its beautiful coastline has been recognized, and major plans are underway to improve the infrastructure. Along with exploring unspoiled beaches and jungle-covered ruins, visitors can enjoy whale-watching, wreck-diving and surfing.

Located in the dry zone, the East Coast is one of Sri Lanka’s most ethnically diverse areas, with a mix of Sinhalese, Muslim and Tamil communities. Most of the area’s population resides in towns and small fishing villages along the coastline, while places inland remain less developed and sparsely populated. The principal town on the East Coast is Trincomalee, which shaped much of the area’s early history. Famous for its deep-water natural harbor, the town was the island’s trading hub during the Anuradhapura and Polannaruwa eras until the Colonial times.

The East began to decline when trade was diverted to the new ports at Galle and then at Colombo. The area’s fortunes further diminished when it found itself enmeshed in the violent struggles between the LTTE and the Sri Lankan Army during the civil War. The war ended in 2009, and since then much of the East Coast has opened up to tourists. The area is now peaceful, although there is a still a military presence in many of its towns and villages.

Most visitors come here for the idyllic stretches of sand, such as the beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli as well as those of Passekudah and Kalkudah. However, surfing enthusiasts head for Arugam Bay, which offers the best surf in the country. Inland, the countryside is largely wild and home to several national parks, of which Kumana is a particular draw for birdwatchers. The area around Maduru Oya National Park is where the original inhabitants of the island, the Veddahs, still try to maintain their traditional way of life.

Exploring The East

The East Coast is home to beautiful beaches and is also considered to be one of the best places in Sri Lanka for surfing. Trincomalee, the capital of the province, is famed for its impressive natural harbor, but the majority of visitors base themselves at the peaceful beaches afford superb opportunities for snorkeling, sport fishing and whale-watching. Further down the coast, Batticaloa offers one of the island’s best wreck-dives to the HMS Hermes that lies off its shores. A short distance north stretch the formerly war-torn beaches of Passekudah and Kalkudah, which are now experiencing a resurgence in popularity among tourists. The surfing hotspot of Arumugam Bay, at the southern end of the coastline, offers the best waves and also serves as a good base for trips to the Lahugala and Kumana national parks as well as the Kudumbigala Hermitage.

Getting Around

Although public transport is easily available in the East, visitors looking for a quicker means of transportation are advised to hire a car and a driver to get around. Road conditions are slowly improving across the area and there are plans to build new routes to cut journey times. Buses travel regularly to, as well as along, the coast, train services run to both Trincomalee and Batticaloa, but visitors will have to change at Gal Oya, if travelling between two towns. Note that travelling south of Panama can still be difficult, as the road here is in poor condition. The towns of Trincomalee, Batticaloa and Arugam Bay are all compact enough to walk around. However, visitors will need to rent a three-wheeler to explore further afield.

Matale is a busy town that does not have many attractions of its town, but serves as an entry point to Sri Lanka’s ancient cities. Tourists en route from Kandy to Dambulla often make a stop over in Matale to visit the Sri Muthumariamman Thevasthanam– an attractive kovil located on the town’s main road, and dedicated to the goddess Mariamman. The statuary on the gopuras is painted in muted colors, in stark contrast to the vivid coloring of other temples found on the island.

About 2 km north of Matale is the Aluvihare Heritage Centreset up by renowned Sri Lankan artist Ena de Silve. Visitors can walk around and explore the sprawling gardens and watch artisans producing intricate batik and fine embroidery in the centre’s workshops. If arranged in advance, it is possible to have lunch at the centre’s Aluvihare Kitchens, where a buffet offering various rice dishes and as many as 24 different curries is served to groups of four or more.

The northernmost district of Sri Lanka is only a few miles from India and similarities to the Indian Tamil culture are obvious in this part of the island. The province is a de facto Tamil heartland where Hinduism replaces Buddhism and Tamil is spoken in place of Sinhala. The sparsely populated region even looks different from the rest of the island, with its red earth and palmyra trees.

Inhabited since antiquity by Tamils from southern India, the north is visibly different from the rest of Sri Lanka. There is a strong Indian influence in this part of the country, but the Sinhalese, the Arab traders, as well as the Dutch, Portuguese and British colonialists have all left their mark.

The Sri Lankan Civil War has had a tremendous impact on the region. Cut off from the rest of the country for years during the war, the north still bears stark reminders of the conflict in the form of bullet-ridden buildings and a strong military presence. It is gradually recovering from its traumatic past and tourists, both Sri Lankan and foreign, are flocking to the Northern Province now that is open for business again. The infrastructure is still a little fragile in this part of Sri Lanka, but visitors are drawn to the area just the same to experience its natural, eerie beauty.

The journey north to Jaffna can be broken at various key points along A9 highway, including at Kilinochhi, where many war memorials can be seen. Mannar Island and Jaffna have atmospheric ruins of Colonial fortifications, with the latter boasting an impressive Dutch fort. Jaffna also has many vibrant kovils as well as an abundance churches. The Jaffna Peninsula is a quiet region with sundrenched coasts and vast tracks of palmyra trees, excellent for bird-watching. However, the remote islands, situated southwest of the peninsula, are the true jewels in Jaffna’s crown, with their gorgeous beaches possessing an unmistakable charm.

Exploring Jaffna and the North

After decades of isolation due to the Civil War, the Northern Province is gradually resurfacing as an important centre of Tamil culture. Jaffna is the most popular destination and this is where most visitors choose to be base themselves. Colorful kovils reveal the strong presence of Hindu Tamils in this town, although Christianity is also a dominant religion. The town is a great base for day trips around the peninsula- some tourists also venture out to the Jaffna Islands, particularly Karaitivu or Kayts, to relax on the beach. Towards the southwest of the province, Mannar Island is connected to the mainland by a causeway. Visitors to the island often take the ferry to the famous Adam’s Bridge, a series of sandbanks stretching all the way to India.

The roads in the Northern Province are improving and work is underway to reopen the railway line between Vavuniya and Jaffna. Many people choose to take the train from Colombo to Vavuniya and then the bus to get to the town. However, there are direct buses from Colombo as well. Visitors can also fly to Jaffna from Colombo Airport. Mannar can be reached by car or bus. The local buses are good way to get around or a car and driver can be hired. Bikes are another good option and can be rented at some guesthouses. Ferries run to Jaffna’s outlying islands.

The Jaffna has seen the number of visitors soar since the end of the Civil War, and some residents who had moved away on account of the violence have started to return. The area’s main town, Jaffna is very different from the rest of the Sri Lanka, primarily because of the scars it bears from the long conflict. Although there are very few tourist sights, it is still a fascinating place to visit. Built by the Dutch between 1680 and 1792 on the side of an earlier, Portuguese construction, the enormous Jaffna Fort suffered during the fighting; renovation efforts are ongoing. It is possible to walk around the ramparts and some of the original coral line bricks used in the construction of the edifice. Other important lights in town include the Jaffna Public Library, which was torched by Sinhalese mobs in 1875 to a design by British architect JG Smither.

All the main religions have their representative houses of worship in Jaffna, but the large Christian churches are hardest to miss. The Main Street in lined with atmospheric church buildings, including St James Church and the enormous St Mary’s Cathedral, built by the Dutch. The latter has a pleasing interior and shady grounds where visitors can rest awhile and take in the place and quiet.

Jaffna’s modest Archaeological Museum is situated west of the town centre. It contains 15^th century artifacts excavated from Kantharodai along with Hindu and Buddhists antiquities. Jaffna also boasts a vibrant market towards the west of the bus station. Although it is stocked with many day-to-day items, palmyra bags and mats are among the most popular products for sale. There is also a covered produce market where vendors sell a wealth of fresh fruit and vegetables.

Jaffna Public Library

The Public Library at Jaffna was set on fire by an anti-Tamil mob for over two days in 1981. Thousands of books and artifacts were destroyed, including priceless ola-leaf manuscripts. After having weathered further assaults over the coming years, it was finally restored in 2001 and opened to the public in 2003; books were donated from all over the world to help re-stock the shelves. Today, the imposing, Mughal-style building boasts an extensive collection of Tamil and English works. The statue in its grounds is that of goddess Saraswati, the Hindu deity of knowledge.