Stretching out into the waters of the Palk Strait, the Jaffna Islands lie to the west of the Jaffna Peninsula. A trip to this string of small islands can feel like journeying to the end of the earth- they are sparsely populated, with white sand, blue sea and palmyra trees. Kayts, Karaitivu and Pungudutivu are connected to the mainland by causeways, whereas Nainativu and Delft can only be accessed by boat. For a relaxing day on the beach, Karaitivu or Kayts are the best opinions, while the more isolated Delft is the place for those seeking to get away from it all. Besides providing a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of the cities, these islands also offer some superb bird-watching.

• Delft

The most remote of Jaffna’s inhabited islands, Delft is known for its wild ponies, descendants of horses first introduces by the Portuguese. West of the ferry dock stand the ruins of a coral Dutch fort, while to the dock’s south is an immense baobab tree. The island also has some peaceful swaths of sand.

• Nainativu

This island is great religious importance to Hindus as well as Buddhists. The Naga Pooshani Ambal Kovil is a Hindu temple dedicated to the goddess Ambal. The Buddhist Nagadipa Vihara features a silver dagobathat marks the spot of the Buddha’s second visit to Sri Lanka. Across the road by bo tree is a seven-headed cobra fountain, where pilgrims often pose for photographs.

• Kayts

The largest of these islands, Kayts is the nearest to Jaffna. South of the island is the Chatty (Velanai) Beach, a popular stretch of sand. To the northwest is Kayts town, from where are ferries to Karaitivu. The town also affords excellent views of the off-shore Hammenhiel Fort, which dates from the 17^th century.

• Karaitivu

The highlight here is Casuarina Beach, which lies on the north end of the island. Popular with locals and foreign tourists, this beach is safe for swimming. Basic facilities such as changing rooms and toilets are available on the beach.

Located at the northernmost tip of Sri Lanka, the fertile Jaffna Peninsula is still fairly isolated from the rest of the country. Some evidence of the Civil War still remains in the form of roofless buildings and heavily militarized areas, but temples are being repainted and renovated, and houses are being rebuilt. Travelling around this primarily rural peninsula is an excellent way to catch glimpses of a world that remains untouched by modernity. Attractions include multiple kovilswith their extravagantly decorated interiors and colorful goburams, and ancient dagobas steeped in history. Visitors may even come across Hindu religious processing making their way through the villages.

• Kandharodai

10 km N of Jaffna. Open daily. Note; Armed guards present at site. Shoes should be removed before entering. An unusual and atmospheric spot, Kandharodai is an archaeological site comprising a cluster of squat miniature dagobas. They are thought to be around 2,000 years old, although their exact purpose of significance remains a mystery. According to some, the dagobas enshrine remains of monks. Another theory indicates that they were constructed and consecrated in fulfillment of prayers. Other finds from excavations of the site are on display in the Archaeological Museum in Jaffna.

• Nilavarai Well

Located at the peninsula’s northern edge are the Keerimalai hot springs, one for men and one for women. The latter is walled but the men’s pool has a good view of the sea. According to local folklore, a 7^th century Chola princess had such a disfigured face that she bathed in these waters and was curved off affliction. In gratitude, she ordered the construction of the Maviddapuram Kandaswamy Temple, found south of area.

The springs attract many visitors who come to immerse themselves in the therapeutic waters. There is another temple, the Naguleswaram Sive Kovil, nearby. The damage it sustained in the late 1990s is no longer apparent and the interior has been repainted in a riot of colors.

• Valvedditturai

30km NE of Jaffna. Former site of Prabhakaran’s house. A fishing town, Valveddditturai is most famous as the birth place of the founder of the LTTE, Velupillai Prabhakaran. However, the elusive guerilla leader’s childhood home was destroyed in 2010. Valvedditturai has a couple of interesting temples, including the Amman Temple towards the east of the village. Behind this shrine is a temple dedicated to Shiva, formerly owned by Prabhakaran’s family.

• Point Pedro

Note: photography is generally not permitted but it is worth asking the sentry for permission. The lighthouse cannot be visited. Point Pedro is the peninsula’s second largest town and its lighthouse marks Sri Lanka’s northern most point. The lighthouse, unfortunately, is still considered a High Security Zone and cannot be visited. However, the road on front can be accessed and visitors may be able to photograph the lighthouse with the permission of the sentry stationed nearby. Fisherman’s beach, located just 2 km beyond the military zone, is attractive and worth a stroll.

• Manalkadu Desert

Towards the south of Point Pedro is a stretch of white-sand coastal dunes, somewhat grandly called the Manalkadu Desert. The remains of St Anthony’s Church, dating from the early 20^th century, can be seen here, half-buried in the sand. Nearby is a group of grave markers, mostly dating to the 2004 tsunami. There is also a beach lapped by bright blue water. However, the remains of houses destroyed by the tsunami have not yet been cleared, and getting to the beach would involve navigating through them.

• Vallipuram

Once considered to be one of Jaffna’s main town, Vallipuram still attracts visitors who come to see the kovildedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. The temple is second only in size to the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple. It underwent extensive renovation in 2012, during which a new roof was installed and the building repainted.

The northernmost district of Sri Lanka is only a few miles from India and similarities to the Indian Tamil culture are obvious in this part of the island. The province is a de facto Tamil heartland where Hinduism replaces Buddhism and Tamil is spoken in place of Sinhala. The sparsely populated region even looks different from the rest of the island, with its red earth and palmyra trees.

Inhabited since antiquity by Tamils from southern India, the north is visibly different from the rest of Sri Lanka. There is a strong Indian influence in this part of the country, but the Sinhalese, the Arab traders, as well as the Dutch, Portuguese and British colonialists have all left their mark.

The Sri Lankan Civil War has had a tremendous impact on the region. Cut off from the rest of the country for years during the war, the north still bears stark reminders of the conflict in the form of bullet-ridden buildings and a strong military presence. It is gradually recovering from its traumatic past and tourists, both Sri Lankan and foreign, are flocking to the Northern Province now that is open for business again. The infrastructure is still a little fragile in this part of Sri Lanka, but visitors are drawn to the area just the same to experience its natural, eerie beauty.

The journey north to Jaffna can be broken at various key points along A9 highway, including at Kilinochhi, where many war memorials can be seen. Mannar Island and Jaffna have atmospheric ruins of Colonial fortifications, with the latter boasting an impressive Dutch fort. Jaffna also has many vibrant kovils as well as an abundance churches. The Jaffna Peninsula is a quiet region with sundrenched coasts and vast tracks of palmyra trees, excellent for bird-watching. However, the remote islands, situated southwest of the peninsula, are the true jewels in Jaffna’s crown, with their gorgeous beaches possessing an unmistakable charm.

Exploring Jaffna and the North

After decades of isolation due to the Civil War, the Northern Province is gradually resurfacing as an important centre of Tamil culture. Jaffna is the most popular destination and this is where most visitors choose to be base themselves. Colorful kovils reveal the strong presence of Hindu Tamils in this town, although Christianity is also a dominant religion. The town is a great base for day trips around the peninsula- some tourists also venture out to the Jaffna Islands, particularly Karaitivu or Kayts, to relax on the beach. Towards the southwest of the province, Mannar Island is connected to the mainland by a causeway. Visitors to the island often take the ferry to the famous Adam’s Bridge, a series of sandbanks stretching all the way to India.

The roads in the Northern Province are improving and work is underway to reopen the railway line between Vavuniya and Jaffna. Many people choose to take the train from Colombo to Vavuniya and then the bus to get to the town. However, there are direct buses from Colombo as well. Visitors can also fly to Jaffna from Colombo Airport. Mannar can be reached by car or bus. The local buses are good way to get around or a car and driver can be hired. Bikes are another good option and can be rented at some guesthouses. Ferries run to Jaffna’s outlying islands.

The Jaffna has seen the number of visitors soar since the end of the Civil War, and some residents who had moved away on account of the violence have started to return. The area’s main town, Jaffna is very different from the rest of the Sri Lanka, primarily because of the scars it bears from the long conflict. Although there are very few tourist sights, it is still a fascinating place to visit. Built by the Dutch between 1680 and 1792 on the side of an earlier, Portuguese construction, the enormous Jaffna Fort suffered during the fighting; renovation efforts are ongoing. It is possible to walk around the ramparts and some of the original coral line bricks used in the construction of the edifice. Other important lights in town include the Jaffna Public Library, which was torched by Sinhalese mobs in 1875 to a design by British architect JG Smither.

All the main religions have their representative houses of worship in Jaffna, but the large Christian churches are hardest to miss. The Main Street in lined with atmospheric church buildings, including St James Church and the enormous St Mary’s Cathedral, built by the Dutch. The latter has a pleasing interior and shady grounds where visitors can rest awhile and take in the place and quiet.

Jaffna’s modest Archaeological Museum is situated west of the town centre. It contains 15^th century artifacts excavated from Kantharodai along with Hindu and Buddhists antiquities. Jaffna also boasts a vibrant market towards the west of the bus station. Although it is stocked with many day-to-day items, palmyra bags and mats are among the most popular products for sale. There is also a covered produce market where vendors sell a wealth of fresh fruit and vegetables.

Jaffna Public Library

The Public Library at Jaffna was set on fire by an anti-Tamil mob for over two days in 1981. Thousands of books and artifacts were destroyed, including priceless ola-leaf manuscripts. After having weathered further assaults over the coming years, it was finally restored in 2001 and opened to the public in 2003; books were donated from all over the world to help re-stock the shelves. Today, the imposing, Mughal-style building boasts an extensive collection of Tamil and English works. The statue in its grounds is that of goddess Saraswati, the Hindu deity of knowledge.