Set in central highlands of Sri Lanka, Hortan Plains is unlike any other place in the country and is often compared to the Scottish highlands, for its windswept landscape and cool, wet climate. It is named after Sir Robert Wilmot- Hortan, the British Governor of Ceylon from 1831 to 1837. Formerly a wildlife sanctuary, the area was declared a national park in 1988. At an elevation of over 2,000 m, the park is situated on the highest plateau in Sri Lanka, with its terrain characterized by undulating grasslands interspersed with dense cloud forests, rocky outcrops and waterfalls. Home to a wide variety of wildlife, Hortan Plains also boasts a large number of bird species. However, the key attraction in the park is World’s End, a sheer precipice affording panoramic views across the southern part of the island.

Exploring the Park

Unlike other national parks in Sri Lanka, Hortan Plains can be explored on foot and without a guide, provided visitors stick to the market trails. While there are several trails in the park, the majority of people follow the Loop Trail. It is possible to head in the direction of either World’s End or Baker’s Falls. Although the most choose to go to World’s end first, the last stretch of this trail between Baker’s Falls and the entrance is an open grassland with no shade. It is advisable to wear good walking shoes as the paths are rocky and uneven. The best time to visit the park is early in the morning, around 7am, to allow plenty of time to reach World’s end before 10am, when clouds roll in and the view is obscured from the escarpment. Avoid visiting the park on weekends and public holidays as it can be very busy and noisy. Although the park can be chilly in the morning, it warms up quickly, so bring a hat and sunscreen.

These gardens were originally laid out in 1861 to cultivate cinchona, the bark of which is a source of the anti-malarial drug quinine. Today, Hakgalais famous for its roses that bloom from April to August. Spread over 27 ha, the garden is divided into different sections, including a Japanese garden, a fernery and a lock garden. The beds here host a diverse range of flowers, from sunflowers and pansies to orchids. The plants and tress labelled in red are indigenous to Sri Lanka.

Spread over 11 ha, Dehiwala Zoo is a popular attraction with locals. The animals housed here include elephants, jaguars, leopards, sloth bears, porcupines and monkeys. In addition, a rich diversity of birdlife can be seen in the attractive walk-in aviary. There is also a butterfly house brimming with 30 species. The afternoon display of elephant acrobatics is popular among locals, although many visitors will find this uncomfortable to watch.

Owning to the damage it suffered during the Civil War, the zoo has been undergoing extensive renovation. Although the enclosures for the big cats and bears are somewhat crammed, the zoo is better than a number of its Asian counterparts.

At 1,320 sq km (510 sq miles), Wilpattu is the largest national park in Sri Lanka comprising a wide range of habitats, including thick jungle, grassy plains, a section of coastline as well as a series of villus (natural lakes). Although most of the large mammals found in Sri Lanka, such as elephants, barking deer and water buffaloes, can be seen here, leopards are the biggest attraction. The park is also home to the elusive sloth bear.

Before the Civil War, Wilpattu was one of the island’s most popular parks. However, it was shut down in 1985 following an attack on its wardens by LTTE cadres. The park reopened briefly between 2003 and 2006, but was closed again until it started welcoming tourists once more in 2010.

Wilpattu is a lot quieter than other Sri Lankan national parks. Wildlife suffered greatly at the hands of poachers during the Civil War and is still recovering; numbers here are significantly lower than in parks such as Yala and Udawalawe. Also the vast expanse and thick undergrowth of the park keep animal sightings few and far between. Birders should have more luck than wildlife enthusiasts – Wilpattu is home to birds such as the crested serpent eagle, the brown fish owl and the brown-capped woodpecker. In addition, visitors may catch sight of crocodiles and water monitors in the villus.

For the last few years Wilpattu has been at the centre of a conflict between conservationists and the government. A Chinese-funded road, being built through the park to link Puttalam with Mannar, was considered “illegal” by conservationists because it passed through a recognized national park. Environmentalists highlighted the damage that the construction would cause to the park’s ecology and wildlife. As a result, work on the road has been halted, but it is yet to be seen if the jungle will be the left reclaim area.

Covering an area of 540-sq km, the picturesque dry-zone reserve of Gal Oya is situated in a part of Sri Lanka little visited by tourists. At the centre of the park is the Senanayake Samudra, a vast reservoir that was created in 1948. The park itself was established in 1954 to protect the catchment area around this body of water. Dotted with many small islands, the reservoir is one of the largest lakes in Sri Lanka.

A number of water birds can be spotted around the reservoir, including the white-bellied fish eagles, the rare painted francolin, Layard’s parakeet and Indian nightjars, and it is also possible to catch sight of elephants on the islands. In addition, grey langurs, wild boar, water buffaloes and deer can also be seen in the park. It is possible to tour the park in the jeep but travelers are recommended to take a boat trip to see the islands on the reservoir. Among the highlights is the appropriately site where the dense forest cover and rocky outcrops are home to a huge diversity of birds.

Stretching beyond the Temple of the Tooth north of Kandy Lake, this forest was once reserved for the royal family. After the fall of the Kandyan kingdom in 1815, the British took over the forest area and began felling trees for their own use. However, when the condition of the forest began to deteriorate, they declared it a protected area in the mid-19th century.

Covering an area of 104 ha, Udawattekele is home to a great variety of flora and fauna. Endemic plants can also be seen here. Including a number of orchid species and other epiphytes such as ferns. Birdwatchers should be able to catch sight of golden-fronted leafbirds, yellow-fronted barbets and the yellow-browed bulbul among other species. There are also butterflies, squirrels, monkeys and reptiles to keep an eye out for.

It is possible to explore Udawattekele by following one of other numerous paths or trails, most of which are named after British governor’s wives. The 5-km Lady Horton’s Drive, which begins from inside the sanctuary, is one such path that takes in a good portion of the forest, including the pond where royalty once bathed. According to legend, gold coins lie beneath the surface of the pond, guarded by a red-eyed serpent. Alternatively, visitors can head for the hills from here. The forest also has rock-cut caves that are still used by Buddhist monks for meditation.

It is advisable to be cautious if visiting the forest independently and avoid a trip here after dark.